October in the Ozarks

I don't have a favorite season anymore. Instead, I have a favorite time in a certain place. At the top of my list is "Sunny July in Ketchikan". Next is "Fireweed Season in the Matanuska Valley". It's now followed by "October in Missouri".

Yup. Missouri. That under-appreciated state that goes largely unmentioned in daily conversation. When was the last time you met someone from Missouri, or heard of someone going on vacation there? Yeah... me neither.

I've been warned about Missouri by other TransAm cyclists since I started this trip. Steep hills, large bloodthirsty dogs, and unbearable heat were often mentioned. I'd be sweating and straining up a mountain pass in Wyoming or Colorado, and a cyclist headed the opposite directions would say, as kindly as they could, "yeah, this is steep... but just wait until you get into the Ozark".

Well, I'm here. And they are certainly the steepest hills I've ever attempted to bike. And yes, there are many large, salivating, barking dogs that like to run after you. But in this season the air is warm and mild, reaching 80 degrees at midday and dropping into the 50s at night. Mmmm, perfect.

The route through Missouri is gorgeous, by the way. This state wears October in all the best colors. The deciduous forest appears to stretch from one state line to the next, interrupted only by hilly little two lane roads and the occasional small town. The trees glow orange, yellow, and red against the brilliant blue sky. Even the low shrubs on the roadsides are beginning to smolder with purple. There are elusive, exotic things to be glimpsed between the trees, if you look carefully. Wild horses supposedly frequent these mountains. I spotted some Amish folk driving a horse-drawn buggy. There are alot of armadillo carcasses on the road, though I've yet to see a live one.

Dark rivers wind their way through deep, narrow valleys. Hawks soar in wide arcs over October-stained forests. Treetops glow crimson in the setting sun. Leaves flutter down in the breeze, swirling over the road before coming to rest beneath the trees.

It's beautiful here. I feel so blessed to be doing this trip later than most TransAm tourists. I've only been in this state for 5 days, but from my experience and what I've heard locals say, there's no better time to cycle Missouri than autumn.