Hey everyone, I almost forgot to mention: today is a global day of action to get folks moving towards a future free of fossil fuels. Today we celebrate "alternative" forms of transportation, and take to the streets with our favorite fuelless mode of travel.
Like the song by Queen says... "Get on your bikes and ride!"
For more info, visit WWW.350.org
Congratulations to the folks at Pacific University for organizing a bike ride for today! I'm with ya in spirit!
Saturday, September 24, 2011
The Colorado Hipocracy
Alright, beautiful state of mountains, red rocks, and ski bums. I've been going easy on ya because you're gorgeous, but it's time to assess the claim that you're a bike-friendly state.
It's true, of all the states I've been to, I've had the warmest reception by Colorado folks, and I've seen more people on bikes here than in all the other states combined. The bike path infrastructure in both Boulder and Denver puts Portland's to shame. But if you think that these kind of attributes make life easier for a touring cyclist, you'd only be partly right.
Theres a reason why the Adventure Cycling Association's Trans-America route comes nowhere near the metropolitan areas of Boulder and Denver, and that's because it's a total jungle for out-of-towners like me. So here's some constructive criticism (for a state that's become near and dear) on how they could make life a little easier for bike tourers.
1. Neighborhood bike paths are cute, but some of us cyclists actually want to get somewhere. The meandering, whimsical route of some of these recreational paths is downright frustrating. To add insult to injury, the designers of the paths have actually worked in extra hills... supposedly to make the ride more interesting for the "after-work" local cyclists.
And when I tire of wandering in scenic loops and hop on an actual road, the traffic is terrifying and the shoulders (frequently) non-existent. So, just know that bike paths are not necessarily a substitute for bike lanes.
2. Boulder is bike-friendly, Denver is bike-friendly, but the 30-40mile stretch between them is anything but. After quizzing each local cyclist I met for a whole week, I still didn't have a clear idea of which route was safe. Thanks to some diligent last -minute research by my friend Pam, we managed to decipher a route the morning that I was leaving. I looked down at the 4pages of maps and directions she handed me, and saw that she'd written "CRUCIAL TURN"on one of the maps, pointing to a vague section of street. "What's the turn called?" I asked.
Pam just shook her head. "I have no idea. I don't even know if that underpass exists". Luckily for me, the underpass did exist, and I found it on the second try: at the edge of a parking lot in a business ark, unsigned and gloomy. Getting out of Denver was a similar, sketchy, urban cycling nightmare.
It's not enough (at least, for those of us on tour) to have bubbles of bike infrastructure. We've got to have a safe, reliable way to go between those bubbles. Not everyone who cycles owns a car to haul their bike from city to city.
More later! I've got to go have breakfast with my Warmshowers hosts.
It's true, of all the states I've been to, I've had the warmest reception by Colorado folks, and I've seen more people on bikes here than in all the other states combined. The bike path infrastructure in both Boulder and Denver puts Portland's to shame. But if you think that these kind of attributes make life easier for a touring cyclist, you'd only be partly right.
Theres a reason why the Adventure Cycling Association's Trans-America route comes nowhere near the metropolitan areas of Boulder and Denver, and that's because it's a total jungle for out-of-towners like me. So here's some constructive criticism (for a state that's become near and dear) on how they could make life a little easier for bike tourers.
1. Neighborhood bike paths are cute, but some of us cyclists actually want to get somewhere. The meandering, whimsical route of some of these recreational paths is downright frustrating. To add insult to injury, the designers of the paths have actually worked in extra hills... supposedly to make the ride more interesting for the "after-work" local cyclists.
And when I tire of wandering in scenic loops and hop on an actual road, the traffic is terrifying and the shoulders (frequently) non-existent. So, just know that bike paths are not necessarily a substitute for bike lanes.
2. Boulder is bike-friendly, Denver is bike-friendly, but the 30-40mile stretch between them is anything but. After quizzing each local cyclist I met for a whole week, I still didn't have a clear idea of which route was safe. Thanks to some diligent last -minute research by my friend Pam, we managed to decipher a route the morning that I was leaving. I looked down at the 4pages of maps and directions she handed me, and saw that she'd written "CRUCIAL TURN"on one of the maps, pointing to a vague section of street. "What's the turn called?" I asked.
Pam just shook her head. "I have no idea. I don't even know if that underpass exists". Luckily for me, the underpass did exist, and I found it on the second try: at the edge of a parking lot in a business ark, unsigned and gloomy. Getting out of Denver was a similar, sketchy, urban cycling nightmare.
It's not enough (at least, for those of us on tour) to have bubbles of bike infrastructure. We've got to have a safe, reliable way to go between those bubbles. Not everyone who cycles owns a car to haul their bike from city to city.
More later! I've got to go have breakfast with my Warmshowers hosts.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Bob's Farm
There's nothing quite like fresh vegetables. The satisfying crunch, the taste of all those vitamins in your mouth, the wonderful, energetic feeling you get afterwards from natural sugars... But half the fun (at least) has to be harvesting them from the garden.
Much to my dismay, the opportunities for fresh-harvested fruits & veggies on this trip have been few and far between. I managed to stop at several farm stands in Oregon, and was fortunate enough to catch a tiny farmer's market in Twin Bridges, Montana... but aside from those two states, it's been grocery store fare. Or, worse, gas station food options (Sometimes they'll have a stack of browning bananas at the check out counter, but that's if your lucky).
I had no idea when I met Pam last week that she was a Master Gardner. I didn't know she had incredible organic yeilds coming out of her backyard, didn't know she used to bicycle tour (alone!), and had no clue that she started a school in a small village in the mountains of Ecuador. All I know was that she was road-biking down the same mountain pass that I was, and she had a brightly-colored "Alaska" cycling jersey on. "Hey, that's my homestate!" I exclaimed.
As it turns out, she invited me over for sourdough pancakes on Saturday morning, and I ended up spending most of the day with her, her boyfriend Rich, and her friends Diane and Karly. In her own words, it was a "fab, FAB day". :) Here are just a few photos from our exploits to a nearby organic farm, run by Bob.
He had some of the most delicious corn I've EVER tasted, a variety called "Peaches and Cream"... for good reason. It tasted like the cob was bursting with Half 'n Half! Which may sound disgusting, but it was definitely not. :D
It's always great to make new friends on the road! Thank you to Pam for her wonderful hospitality and friendship. It was great to get my hands dirty again, and my belly full of fresh beets, corn, and apples.
Enjoy the bounty of September, everyone!
Much to my dismay, the opportunities for fresh-harvested fruits & veggies on this trip have been few and far between. I managed to stop at several farm stands in Oregon, and was fortunate enough to catch a tiny farmer's market in Twin Bridges, Montana... but aside from those two states, it's been grocery store fare. Or, worse, gas station food options (Sometimes they'll have a stack of browning bananas at the check out counter, but that's if your lucky).
I had no idea when I met Pam last week that she was a Master Gardner. I didn't know she had incredible organic yeilds coming out of her backyard, didn't know she used to bicycle tour (alone!), and had no clue that she started a school in a small village in the mountains of Ecuador. All I know was that she was road-biking down the same mountain pass that I was, and she had a brightly-colored "Alaska" cycling jersey on. "Hey, that's my homestate!" I exclaimed.
As it turns out, she invited me over for sourdough pancakes on Saturday morning, and I ended up spending most of the day with her, her boyfriend Rich, and her friends Diane and Karly. In her own words, it was a "fab, FAB day". :) Here are just a few photos from our exploits to a nearby organic farm, run by Bob.
He had some of the most delicious corn I've EVER tasted, a variety called "Peaches and Cream"... for good reason. It tasted like the cob was bursting with Half 'n Half! Which may sound disgusting, but it was definitely not. :D
It's always great to make new friends on the road! Thank you to Pam for her wonderful hospitality and friendship. It was great to get my hands dirty again, and my belly full of fresh beets, corn, and apples.
Enjoy the bounty of September, everyone!
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Olivia's Tips for Solo Travel
Over a delicious dinner of sushi in downtown Boulder, a new friend asked me for my thoughts on travelling alone. I'm no expert (yet) but I have had a lot of "road" time to think about such things. When I told her some of the things I've learned in the past 3 years, she asked if I'd write them down for her.
Well, heck... if I write them down for one person, I may as well write 'em for everyone! So read ahead if you've ever wanted to venture out by yourself, but were afraid to do so. One caveat: if you really want to get some good advice on solo travel, read the tips from people who've done it longer than I have. Taking a self-defense class is also highly recommended, although I've never been to one myself.
Okay, here's some personal travel philosophies...
Definitions: When I'm travelling, there are only 3 kinds of people in the world: Good people, Goobers, and Creepers. Goobers are people who are annoying, but wish you no harm. Creepers are predators, who wish you ill, and are the ones that we want to avoid. Good people is the largest category, thankfully, and encompasses everyone else.
1. When it comes to lodging, you pay not for amenities, but for security. For example, some people "stealth camp" in public parks, corn fields, and on the side of the road. Stealth camping is free, and is a great option if you feel comfortable. If the idea makes you uncomfortable, however, you'll need to upgrade your security and pay more... for a campsite, let's say. If camping alone makes you nervous, you'll need increased security like a shared dorm in a hostel. If sharing a room with a stranger weirds you out, you can sleep in a hotel, which is even more expensive but more secure, and so on. You get the idea. Basically, it's a good idea to have extra cash on hand so that if you need increased security, you'll be able to afford it.
2. As a solo traveller, your main job is to gather and interpret information. Use your resources well, and try not to rely on just one source (a guide book, or the person you meet on the bus) for reliable information. Whenever you're able, get a 2nd. 3rd, and 4th opinion. If one of them is dead-wrong, you'll be glad you did.
3. Protect your information. People ask travellers lots of questions, and you need to be careful how you answer them. Part of your personal safety comes from poeple not knowing your full story (your age, name, route, solo status, etc). If a stranger gathers enough information about you, and they're a Creeper, than can use it to harm you. SO, when asked a question like "what's your last name?" you can respond "I'm sure you understand: I don't give out that information". Be vague when talking about plans for travel, use words like "maybe" and "sometime". Don't give specifics. Good people will totally get it, and the Goobers and Creepers will be frustrated. Too bad for them.
4. You can't be everyone's friend, and you don't want to be. If someone is behaving in a way that makes you nervous or unsure, they're a Goober (or worse still, a Creeper). Whenever you identify someone as a Goober, get away from them. They may not be doing any harm, but they're not doing you any favors either. You've got a job to do (gathering and interpreting information) and the Goober is just getting in the way. If you don't like 'em (for ANY reason), get rid of 'em. There will be better folks to meet down the road.
5. Be aware that there are times when you will be more dependent on others than you'd like. When travelling, situations come up that you cannot always handle/survive by yourself. You will need the help of others, and you must be very picky about who it is that helps you. Remember that Creepers are very good at detecting desperation in others, and that any panic on your part will impair your judgement and make you vulnerable. The best thing is stay calm, and confidently refuse help if you get weird vibes from anyone. Wait until a better offer comes along, even if you're scared.
6. On that same note, if you're ever in a situation that is bewildering, scary, or confusing, STOP. And think. Take some time out, and get some space. If another person is rushing you, be confident and demand space (no need to ask politely). Good people will understand that you need to make clear-headed, safe decisions. Creepers, on the other hand, will continue to try and rush you/not give you space, since part of their trap is to keep you desperate and off-balance. If someone ever rushes you through a decision ("Get in the car, quick, I'm in a big hurry!"), uses physical force or guilt-trips you towards an action/movement, immediately assume they're a Creeper and get away fast. Remember: if you're wrong, and they're actually not a Creeper, it doesn't matter. When you're alone, all that matters is that you act on your instincts, since there is no one else's to go on. Assume that you are absolutely correct, and act on that until you get more perspective from someone you trust.
7. Strive for balance with strangers. If they ask you a question, ask one back. Be aware if someone is starting to be in a position of more power/information than you, and work to correct it. Creepers will be the ones who are super-curious about you and withholding about themselves. If anyone acts this way, it's a red flag and you should ditch 'em.
So, all of the above are things that lots of solo travel experts could probably tell you. This next piece of advice, though, is the most important one to me. It's the one that I couldn't find in any literature so far, and I had to learn it the hard way. Overcoming this next obstacle is the first step to even dreaming about a solo adventure.
8. Build yourself up mentally. Positive thinking is essential to solo travel. Taking control of your thoughts needs to be worked at and practiced, or the fears and worries that you naturally have can ruin your trip. Long before you ever leave home for an adventure, you can prepare yourself for solo travel by channeling your thoughts and staying positive. Allowing your fears to haunt you can turn you into a nervous wreck, or make you abandon the trip altogether.
I think there is a popular myth that worrying about something will better prepare you for it happening. This is absolutely untrue, especially when it comes to solo travel. Worrying and imagining worst-case scenarios just gets in the way of your job (gathering and interpreting information) and causes undue stress, anxiety, and can lead to impaired judgement. Finding ways to channel your thoughts is difficult but important, and I've outlined a way below:
i) When you begin to worry or imagine a worst-case scenario, recognize it.
ii) Make a conscious effort to curb the route of the story you're inventing, and bring it to a swift conclusion with yourself coming out alright. For example, if the idea that someone might attack you enters your head, quickly envision yourself hurting the assailant, escaping, calling the police, and getting rescued. Keep the ending as positive as you can.
iii) It is best not to linger on these thoughts (don't get hung up on details or specifics) as they can start to break down your self-confidence and impair your judgement. Finish your day-dream quickly by making yourself the hero, and then move your thoughts along to something new. Take inventory of your body and gear, or get distracted by something on the road. Rejoice in the moment, and derive happiness from the realization that the present is very good (yes, this is a little bit of Buddhism at work, here). Think "yeah, that terrible thing could happen to me, but right now I am safe, healthy, happy, well-fed, loved, excited..."
iv) Always picture yourself strong, safe, and unharmed at the end of a worry. It will get easier with practice.
I hope these tips prove useful to someone! Please remember that every person has their own style for traveling, dealing with strangers, and handling stress. These ideas won't work for everyone, but it'll get you thinking, at least. :D
Well, heck... if I write them down for one person, I may as well write 'em for everyone! So read ahead if you've ever wanted to venture out by yourself, but were afraid to do so. One caveat: if you really want to get some good advice on solo travel, read the tips from people who've done it longer than I have. Taking a self-defense class is also highly recommended, although I've never been to one myself.
Okay, here's some personal travel philosophies...
Definitions: When I'm travelling, there are only 3 kinds of people in the world: Good people, Goobers, and Creepers. Goobers are people who are annoying, but wish you no harm. Creepers are predators, who wish you ill, and are the ones that we want to avoid. Good people is the largest category, thankfully, and encompasses everyone else.
1. When it comes to lodging, you pay not for amenities, but for security. For example, some people "stealth camp" in public parks, corn fields, and on the side of the road. Stealth camping is free, and is a great option if you feel comfortable. If the idea makes you uncomfortable, however, you'll need to upgrade your security and pay more... for a campsite, let's say. If camping alone makes you nervous, you'll need increased security like a shared dorm in a hostel. If sharing a room with a stranger weirds you out, you can sleep in a hotel, which is even more expensive but more secure, and so on. You get the idea. Basically, it's a good idea to have extra cash on hand so that if you need increased security, you'll be able to afford it.
2. As a solo traveller, your main job is to gather and interpret information. Use your resources well, and try not to rely on just one source (a guide book, or the person you meet on the bus) for reliable information. Whenever you're able, get a 2nd. 3rd, and 4th opinion. If one of them is dead-wrong, you'll be glad you did.
3. Protect your information. People ask travellers lots of questions, and you need to be careful how you answer them. Part of your personal safety comes from poeple not knowing your full story (your age, name, route, solo status, etc). If a stranger gathers enough information about you, and they're a Creeper, than can use it to harm you. SO, when asked a question like "what's your last name?" you can respond "I'm sure you understand: I don't give out that information". Be vague when talking about plans for travel, use words like "maybe" and "sometime". Don't give specifics. Good people will totally get it, and the Goobers and Creepers will be frustrated. Too bad for them.
4. You can't be everyone's friend, and you don't want to be. If someone is behaving in a way that makes you nervous or unsure, they're a Goober (or worse still, a Creeper). Whenever you identify someone as a Goober, get away from them. They may not be doing any harm, but they're not doing you any favors either. You've got a job to do (gathering and interpreting information) and the Goober is just getting in the way. If you don't like 'em (for ANY reason), get rid of 'em. There will be better folks to meet down the road.
5. Be aware that there are times when you will be more dependent on others than you'd like. When travelling, situations come up that you cannot always handle/survive by yourself. You will need the help of others, and you must be very picky about who it is that helps you. Remember that Creepers are very good at detecting desperation in others, and that any panic on your part will impair your judgement and make you vulnerable. The best thing is stay calm, and confidently refuse help if you get weird vibes from anyone. Wait until a better offer comes along, even if you're scared.
6. On that same note, if you're ever in a situation that is bewildering, scary, or confusing, STOP. And think. Take some time out, and get some space. If another person is rushing you, be confident and demand space (no need to ask politely). Good people will understand that you need to make clear-headed, safe decisions. Creepers, on the other hand, will continue to try and rush you/not give you space, since part of their trap is to keep you desperate and off-balance. If someone ever rushes you through a decision ("Get in the car, quick, I'm in a big hurry!"), uses physical force or guilt-trips you towards an action/movement, immediately assume they're a Creeper and get away fast. Remember: if you're wrong, and they're actually not a Creeper, it doesn't matter. When you're alone, all that matters is that you act on your instincts, since there is no one else's to go on. Assume that you are absolutely correct, and act on that until you get more perspective from someone you trust.
7. Strive for balance with strangers. If they ask you a question, ask one back. Be aware if someone is starting to be in a position of more power/information than you, and work to correct it. Creepers will be the ones who are super-curious about you and withholding about themselves. If anyone acts this way, it's a red flag and you should ditch 'em.
So, all of the above are things that lots of solo travel experts could probably tell you. This next piece of advice, though, is the most important one to me. It's the one that I couldn't find in any literature so far, and I had to learn it the hard way. Overcoming this next obstacle is the first step to even dreaming about a solo adventure.
8. Build yourself up mentally. Positive thinking is essential to solo travel. Taking control of your thoughts needs to be worked at and practiced, or the fears and worries that you naturally have can ruin your trip. Long before you ever leave home for an adventure, you can prepare yourself for solo travel by channeling your thoughts and staying positive. Allowing your fears to haunt you can turn you into a nervous wreck, or make you abandon the trip altogether.
I think there is a popular myth that worrying about something will better prepare you for it happening. This is absolutely untrue, especially when it comes to solo travel. Worrying and imagining worst-case scenarios just gets in the way of your job (gathering and interpreting information) and causes undue stress, anxiety, and can lead to impaired judgement. Finding ways to channel your thoughts is difficult but important, and I've outlined a way below:
i) When you begin to worry or imagine a worst-case scenario, recognize it.
ii) Make a conscious effort to curb the route of the story you're inventing, and bring it to a swift conclusion with yourself coming out alright. For example, if the idea that someone might attack you enters your head, quickly envision yourself hurting the assailant, escaping, calling the police, and getting rescued. Keep the ending as positive as you can.
iii) It is best not to linger on these thoughts (don't get hung up on details or specifics) as they can start to break down your self-confidence and impair your judgement. Finish your day-dream quickly by making yourself the hero, and then move your thoughts along to something new. Take inventory of your body and gear, or get distracted by something on the road. Rejoice in the moment, and derive happiness from the realization that the present is very good (yes, this is a little bit of Buddhism at work, here). Think "yeah, that terrible thing could happen to me, but right now I am safe, healthy, happy, well-fed, loved, excited..."
iv) Always picture yourself strong, safe, and unharmed at the end of a worry. It will get easier with practice.
I hope these tips prove useful to someone! Please remember that every person has their own style for traveling, dealing with strangers, and handling stress. These ideas won't work for everyone, but it'll get you thinking, at least. :D
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Boulder Loves Bikes
On the Peak to Peak Highway yesterday, I met two local cyclists riding recumbents. When I asked them about the best route to Boulder, they told me to take the Riverside Driv,and then get on highway 36. "Really, the big highway?" I asked.
"Yep," the man replied. "There's almost more cyclists than cars out there. Enjoy it: you're in bicycle country, now!"
It's a bit disorienting. Here in Boulder, as in Portland, bikes are not only a primary means of transport, but also of self-expression. All kinds of people, with or without helmets, and with or without concern for traffic, flit in and out of traffic and crowd the streets. This was the first time that I've arrived in a town (Pearl Street, where a friend works at the Boulder Cafe) and was unable to find parking: every bike rack, every sign post was already a tangled mess of tires and handle bars. I'd never seen anything like it.
It also meant that my rig attracted a lot of attention. Sometimes it was good. "Hey, sweet ride!" yelled a girl from the sidewalk as I rolled past. And the rest of the attention was.. not what I wished. It was hard to tell if the boys who were cat-calling after me were more interested in me or my bike.
So it's refreshing, I guess. But after so many days alone on the road, it feels like too many people sometimes. I think ill be looking forward to getting back on the road again in a week or so.
"Yep," the man replied. "There's almost more cyclists than cars out there. Enjoy it: you're in bicycle country, now!"
It's a bit disorienting. Here in Boulder, as in Portland, bikes are not only a primary means of transport, but also of self-expression. All kinds of people, with or without helmets, and with or without concern for traffic, flit in and out of traffic and crowd the streets. This was the first time that I've arrived in a town (Pearl Street, where a friend works at the Boulder Cafe) and was unable to find parking: every bike rack, every sign post was already a tangled mess of tires and handle bars. I'd never seen anything like it.
It also meant that my rig attracted a lot of attention. Sometimes it was good. "Hey, sweet ride!" yelled a girl from the sidewalk as I rolled past. And the rest of the attention was.. not what I wished. It was hard to tell if the boys who were cat-calling after me were more interested in me or my bike.
So it's refreshing, I guess. But after so many days alone on the road, it feels like too many people sometimes. I think ill be looking forward to getting back on the road again in a week or so.
Friday, September 9, 2011
At the Saratoga Post Office
I was sitting on the ground outside the post office in Saratoga, Wyoming, writing post cards to friends, when a lovely woman approached. "You guys staying the night here?" She asked.
"Ain't no 'guys' with me," I replied stubbornly, "I'm traveling alone."
Thankfully my cheeky response didn't bother her, and she informed me that her name was Sheila, and that she and her boyfriend were hosts on Warmshowers, and invited me to stay the night at their place. I was happy to accept.
I continued to write post cards until someone pulled up in a pickup. "Hey!" Shouted the driver, "you traveling alone?"
"You bet!" I shouted back. I looked up to see a woman sitting in the driver's seat, beckoning me to the truck. She invited me to stay at her aunt's place that night. When I told her I already had plans she nodded. "Okay, just thought id check. See, there was an article published in the paper not too long ago, about catering to cyclists in the community, and now my aunt's all fired up to have someone camp on her lawn."
Alarms were going off in my head. "An article!" I cried, "is the newspaper office here in town?"
She directed me to the Saratoga Sun just a block away, and within five minutes I was standing in their office, asking for a copy of last week's paper. "Uh... yeah, sure. Let me grab Tom for you, since he's the one who wrote it. "
He returned in a minute, accompanied by none other than Tom... Sheila's boyfriend, my other host for the night.
(Don't you love small towns?!)
The article turned out to be a great one, entitled "Time to Welcome Two-Wheeled Tourists", and it cited the economic benefits to small communities who catered to Transam cyclists. "Saratoga has all the amenities cyclists need," wrote Tom, "and the most popular coast-to-coast route in the world is delivering tourists right to our doorstep. It is time to start taking advantage. "
Sheila and Tom were incredible hosts, and managed to get a glass of wine in my hand AND keep me up past 11. It was a memorable night... I haven't laughed so hard in a long time.
Thank you, Saratoga, for everything. :)
"Ain't no 'guys' with me," I replied stubbornly, "I'm traveling alone."
Thankfully my cheeky response didn't bother her, and she informed me that her name was Sheila, and that she and her boyfriend were hosts on Warmshowers, and invited me to stay the night at their place. I was happy to accept.
I continued to write post cards until someone pulled up in a pickup. "Hey!" Shouted the driver, "you traveling alone?"
"You bet!" I shouted back. I looked up to see a woman sitting in the driver's seat, beckoning me to the truck. She invited me to stay at her aunt's place that night. When I told her I already had plans she nodded. "Okay, just thought id check. See, there was an article published in the paper not too long ago, about catering to cyclists in the community, and now my aunt's all fired up to have someone camp on her lawn."
Alarms were going off in my head. "An article!" I cried, "is the newspaper office here in town?"
She directed me to the Saratoga Sun just a block away, and within five minutes I was standing in their office, asking for a copy of last week's paper. "Uh... yeah, sure. Let me grab Tom for you, since he's the one who wrote it. "
He returned in a minute, accompanied by none other than Tom... Sheila's boyfriend, my other host for the night.
(Don't you love small towns?!)
The article turned out to be a great one, entitled "Time to Welcome Two-Wheeled Tourists", and it cited the economic benefits to small communities who catered to Transam cyclists. "Saratoga has all the amenities cyclists need," wrote Tom, "and the most popular coast-to-coast route in the world is delivering tourists right to our doorstep. It is time to start taking advantage. "
Sheila and Tom were incredible hosts, and managed to get a glass of wine in my hand AND keep me up past 11. It was a memorable night... I haven't laughed so hard in a long time.
Thank you, Saratoga, for everything. :)
One of Many Great Conversations with a Stranger
It was a short (40 miles) ride from Rawlins to Saratoga yesterday. I arrived in the early afternoon, following the signs saying "Hot Springs" without having any am ambition to actually soak during the warmest part of the day. Many other folks thought this was a great idea, however, and I was entertained by the festive parade of suits and towels that sauntered by me as I ate my lunch in the shade. People chattered happily to each other as they made their way down to the river, in search of just the right blend of hot spring water and cool river water.
One man postponed his dip in the river to talk to me. We discussed possible routes to Boulder, CO ( not as simple as it may sound), his family, and the state of the world today. "Dang," he said, lighting up his second cigarette, "I'm amazed by what you're doing. When I was your age, I hitchhiked around and stuff, but I was too messed up most of the time to plan something like this. You kids are amazing."
"Yeah," I said, "Only it seems like your generation had more fun than us. I've been talking to lots of people your age,including my parents, and it seems like folks were excited to strike out and do something new, even if it was stupid. People my age tend to be nervous, and worried about debt and jobs and getting through school ... you hardly ever see hitchhikers now."
"Yeah," he agreed, nodding thoughtfully. "The sixties were good for us that way. I believe you're right about kids being different these days. I see it my own kids too: wound up tight, and already thinking about being secure. Hell, we never thought about shit like that! And you know," he said, looking at me through his glasses, "I don't know what kind of poison the media and the government fed you guys, but it does seem like a lot of people have a dark cloud over 'em these days."
Food for thought, as I pedalled against the wind and crossed the border into Colorado today.
One man postponed his dip in the river to talk to me. We discussed possible routes to Boulder, CO ( not as simple as it may sound), his family, and the state of the world today. "Dang," he said, lighting up his second cigarette, "I'm amazed by what you're doing. When I was your age, I hitchhiked around and stuff, but I was too messed up most of the time to plan something like this. You kids are amazing."
"Yeah," I said, "Only it seems like your generation had more fun than us. I've been talking to lots of people your age,including my parents, and it seems like folks were excited to strike out and do something new, even if it was stupid. People my age tend to be nervous, and worried about debt and jobs and getting through school ... you hardly ever see hitchhikers now."
"Yeah," he agreed, nodding thoughtfully. "The sixties were good for us that way. I believe you're right about kids being different these days. I see it my own kids too: wound up tight, and already thinking about being secure. Hell, we never thought about shit like that! And you know," he said, looking at me through his glasses, "I don't know what kind of poison the media and the government fed you guys, but it does seem like a lot of people have a dark cloud over 'em these days."
Food for thought, as I pedalled against the wind and crossed the border into Colorado today.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Caught in the Crosswind
Today, I cheated.
I knew that this day would come, when the Forces that Be would look down on me and say "Girl, you stupid or something? Get off the bike". It's a lucky thing I heard this advice at all, over the howling wind.
I'd been hearing about the infamous Wyoming wind for almost a week now, without understanding what folks meant. I figured it's either a tail-wind or a head-wind: the former being awesome, and the latter being annoying, but neither one being deadly.
Well, today I encountered a cross -wind for the first time, and I believe I'm lucky to be alive. The 40mph winds were pushing me off into the loose gravel, and it took all my strength to keep the handle bars pointed in the right direction. There was incredibly heavy truck traffic, and when they whizzed by I'd get caught in the slip steam and thrown towards the side of the truck with terrifying force. I careened back and forth across the crumbling shoulder, buffeted by the wind and the slip streams to the point where I felt like a windsock out there on the highway, with no ability to direct myself.
There was a point when I couldn't take it anymore, and, shaking, I dismounted. It was hard even to walk the bike, as the wind shoved the frame back and forth. I walked over a mile, sure that if I just kept moving I'd escape the wind eventually. I knew it was only 18 more miles to Rawlins, but when I looked ahead and saw the long, unrelenting stretch of exposed highway, I turned to face the oncoming traffic and stuck out my thumb.
I was picked up within minutes by a sweet man from Montana, and the chat we had in the car helped to calm my frazzled nerves.
I knew that this day would come, when the Forces that Be would look down on me and say "Girl, you stupid or something? Get off the bike". It's a lucky thing I heard this advice at all, over the howling wind.
I'd been hearing about the infamous Wyoming wind for almost a week now, without understanding what folks meant. I figured it's either a tail-wind or a head-wind: the former being awesome, and the latter being annoying, but neither one being deadly.
Well, today I encountered a cross -wind for the first time, and I believe I'm lucky to be alive. The 40mph winds were pushing me off into the loose gravel, and it took all my strength to keep the handle bars pointed in the right direction. There was incredibly heavy truck traffic, and when they whizzed by I'd get caught in the slip steam and thrown towards the side of the truck with terrifying force. I careened back and forth across the crumbling shoulder, buffeted by the wind and the slip streams to the point where I felt like a windsock out there on the highway, with no ability to direct myself.
There was a point when I couldn't take it anymore, and, shaking, I dismounted. It was hard even to walk the bike, as the wind shoved the frame back and forth. I walked over a mile, sure that if I just kept moving I'd escape the wind eventually. I knew it was only 18 more miles to Rawlins, but when I looked ahead and saw the long, unrelenting stretch of exposed highway, I turned to face the oncoming traffic and stuck out my thumb.
I was picked up within minutes by a sweet man from Montana, and the chat we had in the car helped to calm my frazzled nerves.
Monday, September 5, 2011
Dubois' Mysteries
What a beautiful ride yesterday, from Hatchet Campground over Togwotee Pass to Dubois. There was some horrendous road construction, with copious loose gravel and some really jarring "washboard" stretches. But it couldn't detract from the view. Fortunately,the road work was all on the uphill ... so the 20 mile downhill was one long stretch of perfectly smooth, asphalt-flavored freedom. I was going over 30mph, and it was only a 4% grade!
The road into Dubois had a beautiful surprise for me. Huge painted hills towered over the highway,striped in red and white so that they looked like giant strawberry shortcakes. (Or maybe I was just hungry). As I was sitting at the side of the road enjoying the spectacle, three women sauntered by on horses. When they started muttering to each other about whether or not I was crazy, I took that as my cue to leave.
One sad thing: the most expensive camping I've encountered this trip. I tried to explain to the girl at the counter that I came on a bicycle, and my little tent takes up less space than a park bench. She smiled, charged me the $24, and had me sign a liability waiver. So here I am, nestled among 80-person tents and giant RVs that would put a cruise ship to shame. I feel like a little kid trying to blend in to a crowd of adults. Except they have more toys than I do. Hint : when you need a separate 10 x 10 tent just for your state-of-the-art barbeque, and there's only 4 of you to feed... that's not camping anymore. Same goes for the folks who bring the RV, the pickup, and the 4-wheeler to the campsite, and enough dogs to win the Iditarod.
hould have stealth camped, I guess, but there's not much to hide behind out here: I'm in sage brush country again.
The road into Dubois had a beautiful surprise for me. Huge painted hills towered over the highway,striped in red and white so that they looked like giant strawberry shortcakes. (Or maybe I was just hungry). As I was sitting at the side of the road enjoying the spectacle, three women sauntered by on horses. When they started muttering to each other about whether or not I was crazy, I took that as my cue to leave.
One sad thing: the most expensive camping I've encountered this trip. I tried to explain to the girl at the counter that I came on a bicycle, and my little tent takes up less space than a park bench. She smiled, charged me the $24, and had me sign a liability waiver. So here I am, nestled among 80-person tents and giant RVs that would put a cruise ship to shame. I feel like a little kid trying to blend in to a crowd of adults. Except they have more toys than I do. Hint : when you need a separate 10 x 10 tent just for your state-of-the-art barbeque, and there's only 4 of you to feed... that's not camping anymore. Same goes for the folks who bring the RV, the pickup, and the 4-wheeler to the campsite, and enough dogs to win the Iditarod.
hould have stealth camped, I guess, but there's not much to hide behind out here: I'm in sage brush country again.
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Wyoming Birthday
I arrived in Jackson, Wyoming at 5pm on my 22nd birthday. My musician relatives greeted me with the Happy Birthday song, sung in 4part harmony, and a big chocolate cake garnished with home grown raspberries. I'm so glad I decided to celebrate my birthday with them!
I haven't seen this crew in 5 years, and all of them turned out to be too awesome to leave... so I've decided to stay an extra day. I'll be back on the road soon, though, and will be battling the infamous wind of central Wyoming. But I'm sure it builds character. :)
I haven't seen this crew in 5 years, and all of them turned out to be too awesome to leave... so I've decided to stay an extra day. I'll be back on the road soon, though, and will be battling the infamous wind of central Wyoming. But I'm sure it builds character. :)
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